TASTE OF THE TOWN In San Francisco, local writer Becky Duffett shows us where to get the best bowls of cioppino. THE ROUTINE Chef Millie Peartree shares how gym sessions strengthen her body and creativity, plus the make-ahead dinner that helps her do it all. EYE CANDY Hannah Walhout muses on the old-world treat having a comeback moment. TUTTO UMAMI We’re bringing some funk, zing, and heat to these Italian American hits. BY CHRIS MOROCCO